Madeline Shannon
Journalist
Feminism, A Shaping Force In The Fashion Industry
Sept. 9, 2018
Professor Katie Sabo
20th Century Fashion Arts
Feminism, long a political as well as sartorial movement, is getting new life in the political and cultural spheres both in the United States and elsewhere. Although some of the most notable examples of this may be in politics, economics and judicial matters, the influence of modern feminist efforts clearly manifests itself in the runway collections of many fashion designers. Design has long shaped the conversation around women’s rights and, in turn, been shaped by it. This has been especially apparent in the industry since the summer of 2017, a season in which some of the first fall collections debuted after the contentious 2016 American presidential election.
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While not a new inspiration for designers, the conversation about women’s roles in society and politics, in particular, and the place of feminism in the modern societal landscape lend themselves to many design elements in the garments crafted by notable fashion designers since the fall of 2017. One good example of this is Elie Saab’s Fall 2017 collection [image 1], which, according to Vogue reporter Nicole Phelps, was “a nostalgic view of female power dating to medieval times, but that could be why it remains seductive –– on the runway and in the culture.” The fashion reporter’s perception was supported by the designer’s vision itself. Phelps references Saab’s runway show thus: “His show notes imagined a fictional world of ‘fallen kings, defeated by a fearless and heroic sisterhood...bright and brave warrior queens they were, are, and forever will be.”
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One of the most blatant examples of feminist energy in a collection, though, was Christian Siriano’s Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear collection. An unmistakable piece that illustrates this concept was a black, short-sleeved t-shirt that read simply, “Vote for Cynthia,” a reference to Sex and the City actress Cynthia Nixon’s campaign for Governor of New York [image 2]. According to Janelle Okwodu, also of Vogue, Siriano referenced the decision to support a well-known female political candidate thusly, “‘I think what she’s doing is also what I’m trying to do,’ he said. ‘We’re trying to support all these different types of people, cultures, and women, and I wanted to put it out there and support her.’”
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Although not the only two examples of designers employing a feminist spirit in their collections, Saab and Siriano, based on the design of their garments, are well aware of the conversation surrounding feminism and women in politics and society at large. “Fearless and heroic sisterhoods” and women in elected office are on the minds of many, and the use of and statements about female empowerment in fashion is a theme driving forward the aesthetics of women’s clothing, as evidenced by the work of Siriano, Saab and their counterparts in the fashion industry.
Bibliography
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Phelps, Nicole. “Fall 2017 Couture Elie Saab.” Vogue July 2017. Vogue.com. Web. Accessed September 2018.
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Okwodu, Janelle. “Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Christian Siriano.” Vogue September 2018. Vogue.com. Web. Accessed September 2018.
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Tordo, Marcus. “Look 1.” Vogue.com, Number 1, Conde Nast Inc., July 5, 2017, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-couture/elie-saab/slideshow/collection.
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Tombolini, Luca. “Look 34.” Vogue.com, Number 34, Conde Nast Inc., September 8, 2018, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/christian-siriano/slideshow/collection#34.